Theodoros Kalotinis is one of my favorite perfumers. In December, Theodoros released two new fragrances, one of which we will be examining today: Symposium extrait de parfum.
Symposium draws inspiration (as the name suggests) from the ancient Greek’s traditional partygoing and celebrating. Which leads us into the notes: this fragrance has a red wine accord over an ambery base with a slightly animalic musk, as well as ambergris, labdanum, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, a hint of lavender, woods, iris, and patchouli.
To call this artistic and adventeruous would be an understatement; however, don’t be afraid as this is super wearable. It is sensual and potent. Performance as with all of the Theodoros Kalotinis fragrances is phenomenal: less is more when it comes to application.
Unique and well-done. Another cap in the feather of Mr. Kalotinis.
Tempestuous and tantalizing. Artful, adventurous…and yes, ambitious!
A composition that embraces ecstasy and foregoes fear: grilled pineapple smokily swirls with green apples, and bergamot breezes by in the background. Creamy vanilla positively purrs, and jasmine sways. Saffron weaves a subtle web, smoothly sweeping the wearer away on radiant wings.
A scent that: ✔️sends signals (strength, seduction, sophistication) ✔️performs well (extrait concentration) ✔️garners compliments ✔️smells freaking incredible
Presenting JALOUS, an original blend sure to become a bestseller for newly launched niche house @elysianparfums
Decadent roses and luscious peonies. Scandalous strawberries—fresh, slightly tart. A blushing bergamot.
A stunning sequence, yes. Yet this is only the first aria, and we are at an olfactory opera.
The roses and peonies continue to unfurl. The strawberry exits and an innuendo of incense begins. Woody nuances also emerge.
Again, a stunning sequence. One that could capture a heart easily: yet mischievously, unfolds only further wonders to behold.
The peonies and roses withdraw to the chorus, graciously surrendering the stage to Strawberry. Having effected a bit of a Houdini act, Strawberry returns resurrected and now more akin to a strawberry mousse. Vanilla (natural rather than gourmand), incense, and woods swirl together with the strawberry for the grand finale.
Ethereal. Celestial. Liquid art.
Empyrean, by TOMAVICCI.
Is a standing ovation in order? I think so. One of the best discoveries of 2022.
Divine Aphrodisiac opens with a beautiful sesame accord. If you have The Embrace, you already know this house slays sesame. Here, bitter almond and a subtle sprinkle of cinnamon roll out the red carpet for the heart.
Soon, the heart makes its debut and WOW: you really smell peanut butter. The expensive Whole Foods type: hold the sugar, just pure creamy lactonic nuttiness. (Sweetness comes later: This scent is a journey.) There is a little bit of smooth powder rounding out the mid (iris) but overall, peanut butter is the star.
The next chapter: the drydown. Praline, coffee and vetiver take the stage. The vetiver here is done similarly to Tom Ford Grey Vetiver. The praline is prominent and sweet and drapes itself across the woody drydown. I get subtle coffee nuances as well.
This is an extrait de parfum that, let me tell you, is not clocking out early. It is a beast. Until you shower, Divine Aphrodisiac is there. Projection and sillage are also very strong💯
Marketed as unisex, I agree until the drydown when I feel it leaning maybe into a more masculine energy. I absolutely love it on me, and on my man? I die. The name of the perfume, ahem, tells you what you need to know.
This is a perfect fall and winter fragrance, especially for date night, that in addition to being sexy also exudes sophistication and luxury. My one comment is if you work in a conservative office, this is noticeable. It’s not a shy scent: Divine Aphrodisiac will work the room.
Does Divine Aphrodisiac speak to you, my loves? Do you have a favorite Navitus fragrance?
Introducing…Venom of Love Extrait de Parfum. Navitus Parfums created this new fall fragrance release in collaboration with Paulina Schar. Venom of Love is nosed by master perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur.
Venom of Love is GORGEOUS. I get this chocolate accord, very much like the chocolate used in baking where you can smell the sweet chocolate as well as hints of the cocoa powder. I also get a marzipan vibe, which I attribute to how my skin chemistry and nose are interpreting the almond cream accord.
The almond cream accord, for me, is really the star player: and yes, I do get a cherry accord as well. This aspect reminds me of cherry pie filling before it goes into the oven: juicy, maybe slightly sour. There is a subtle boozy aspect to the fragrance on my skin but it is not as boozy as say Tom Ford Lost Cherry or Max Philip Cherry, and overall, this extrait de parfum reminds me of a chocolate covered cherry with marzipan filling. Venom of Love has an interestingly “cool” feeling to it, reminiscent of a decadent sweet dessert selected from a bakery display.
For gourmand lovers, Venom of Love is sure to be a fall and winter fragrance homerun. The longevity is excellent (as one would expect from an extrait concentration), with moderate projection, and moderate sillage.
The “vibe,” overall, is smooth, creamy, cool, and delicious. I received this from Navitus Parfums for review and could not be more delighted to share this with you after wearing for about two weeks: Venom of Love is simply gorgeous, and another stunner by Sidonie.
Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajad Extrait has been one of my best blind buys of 2022. This stunning fragrance was love at first sniff, and was in constant rotation throughout the warm weather. Now with the fall in full swing, I continue to reach for this stunning scent as it reveals more facets in the changing climate.
In the high heat, Hibiscus Mahajad offered a refreshing hibuscus tea with candied ginger and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. In the cooler weather, I experience more of a jammy rose-hibiscus mix, with amber in the base and a subtle leather touch. Coming from someone who generally avoids leather in perfumery: this one is superb. It’s not prominent, just a subtle sexy caress in the profile.
The potency of this extrait is also topknotch. One spritz is all I need to get a full day wear. This will last eternally on clothes (I love the scent so much I do not mind, just as a heads up if you plan to spritz this near something that has to be drycleaned). The sillage and projection are also strong.
Absolutely a stunning fragrance and signature scent worthy for me. Huge hit from Maison Crivelli!
I have been testing out 10 extrait de parfums from new artisan house MIND GAMES♟courtesy of the house’s limited editition Discovery Vault that I received. In this review we are deep diving into this new artisan niche house’s Silver Collection.
MIND GAMES FRAGRANCES Discovery Vault
All of these fragrances are extrait de parfum, all with marvelous longevity, sillage and projection.
Scent experiences:
♟CASTLING – Christelle Laprade
A new and riveting moment for fig in perfumery is ushered in with Castling. Castling is an elegant, sophisticated ride of milky fig, soft florals, musk, vanilla woods and sandalwood. Smooth and even solar at points. Regal and refined, Castling is sure to prove to be an award winner for MIND GAMES.
♟CHECKMATE – David Apel
We have a champagne accord🥂paired with tobacco. Smoky, yet bright and a bit zippy simultaneously. Davana, rose and patchouli add to this sensual mix. As electricifying as the move!
♟BLOCKADE – Christelle Laprade
Boya oud with leather. Potent, intricate, bold and daring! This and J’Adoube are the two strongest in a strong range. One spray commands the room; overspray and you’ve bought the building.
♟CAÏSSA – David Apel
Licorice has entered the chat! Stunningly so! Cocoa bean, cardamom, white florals, musk… If you find white florals “boring,” prepare yourself, because queenly Caïssa is beguiling and sweeps you off your feet.
♟AS-SULI’S DIAMOND – Annick Menardo
Myrrh, incense and woods in the base are composed with ylang ylang, fig leaf and bergamot. Resinous. Smoky. Light and dark. Poised, pulled together, and elegant.
These dazzle and amaze me with their genius creativity while still being lovely and wearable.
Which ones would you pick from this collection, my loves? Have you tried these yet?
I have been testing out 10 extrait de parfums from new artisan house MIND GAMES♟courtesy of the house’s limited editition Discovery Vault that I received. These take my breath away. Let’s explore the 5-piece Black Collection in this review.
MIND GAMES FRAGRANCES Discovery Vault 8ml travel sprays
Excellent longevity, projection and sillage abound across the board here. Just a few light spritzes will carry the day.
Scent experiences below:
♟GARDEZ – Emilie Coppermann Gardez has fruits and florals draping leathers, and subtle orris. Although saffron is not a listed note, something buoys the leathers up in the drydown. Underneath the seductive darkness lies something primal. Complex, sensual, even erotic. (Captivating also on my man—these extraits are all unisex.) A tantalizing invitation lies in this bottle.
♟GRAND MASTER – Alexandra Carlin A deep, red rose blooms near a river of black coffee. A blackcurrant shrub nearby. This rose, is it tart, is it jammy? Both by turn then this evolves into a sweet bread with brandy, fruits and nuts. A panettone accord, my loves! A tour de force of a floral gourmand.
♟SCHOLAR’S MATE – Christelle Laprade Prominent notes of cedar and grapefruit did not adore my skin chemistry, so on to the blotters that come with the Vault: this smells elegant and compelling, aromatic and woody. Vetiver, definitely. Smoky.
♟J’ADOUBE – Nathalie Benareau I experience a fruity floral (listed as a pomegranate suede profile, skin chemistry as we know is unique). There is a little bit of a “perfumey” vibe. I enjoy this one, it is lovely yet may not feel as unique as the other offerings. Quite potent, if you seek a powerhouse.
♟DOUBLE ATTACK – Christelle Laprade Sweet chocolate, bitter chocolate, sweet saffron, spicy saffron…I am enraptured. A squeeze of orange bitters in the drydown; a sprinkle of spicy cinammon. Such an experience! Words…words fail. A creation of astonishing intricate beauty. Iconic.
MIND GAMES delivers a masterful collection. My favorites: Double Attack, Grand Master and Gardez. Which do you think your favorites would be from the Black Collection?
TERRIE 